First morning in Zermatt and the Matterhorn is playing hide-and-seek

I'm sitting in a cozy café with a steaming cup of coffee, watching snowflakes drift lazily past the window. The forecast wasn't lying – it's definitely winter up here at 1,620 meters. My morning walk through Zermatt's car-free streets was both magical and freezing, with temperatures hovering around -1°C.

After arriving late yesterday afternoon from Interlaken, I spent the evening settling into my small but comfortable hotel room. The journey itself deserves its own post (which I'll write soon), but the transition from Interlaken's lakes to Zermatt's mountains has been striking.

This morning, I woke early and immediately pulled back the curtains, hoping for that postcard-perfect view of the Matterhorn. Instead, I was greeted by low-hanging clouds and the first snowflakes of what the forecast says will be quite a substantial snowfall – apparently 10-15cm expected by this afternoon. The famous mountain is playing hard to get today.

![Snow beginning to fall on Zermatt's rooftops]()

I ventured out around 8:30, bundled in every layer I own. The village is charming with its wooden chalets and narrow streets. Without cars, there's a peaceful quiet that's only interrupted by the occasional electric taxi or the sound of boots crunching on fresh snow.

I walked through the village center, past shops still closed at that hour, and found myself at a viewpoint that would – on a clear day – offer spectacular views of the Matterhorn. Today, however, the mountain remained stubbornly hidden behind a thick curtain of clouds. A Swiss couple with serious-looking camera equipment stood nearby, equally disappointed but patient. "Sometimes you wait all day," the man told me, "and then for just five minutes, she shows herself." They spoke of the mountain with such reverence, almost as a living entity with moods and whims.

By 9:30, I'd retreated to this café as the snowfall intensified. I'm watching tourists and locals navigate the increasingly slippery streets while contemplating my plans for the day. The Gornergrat railway was on my must-do list, but with this weather, I'm reconsidering. The ticket seller at the station advised that visibility at the top is currently zero – "just expensive white fog," as she put it with refreshing honesty.

Instead, I think I'll spend today exploring the village itself, perhaps visit the Matterhorn Museum to learn about the first ascent and the mountaineering history here. The weather forecast looks considerably better for tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll save the high-altitude excursions for then.

There's something peaceful about being forced to slow down by the weather. I've been traveling for 62 days now, with 438 still ahead of me. Not every day can be perfect sunshine and panoramic views. Sometimes you get snow and fog instead, and that's part of the journey too.

The café is filling up now as more people escape the cold. I've noticed many languages being spoken – German, French, Italian, English, Japanese – a reminder that even in the off-season and in less-than-ideal weather, Zermatt remains an international destination.

My plan for the rest of the morning: finish this excellent coffee, perhaps indulge in another piece of Swiss pastry (research purposes, of course), and then bundle up for more village exploration. The Matterhorn can keep playing hide-and-seek. I'll be here for a few days – plenty of time for the clouds to lift and reveal what I came to see.

Day 62 of 500. The journey continues, even when the visibility doesn't.

![My morning coffee with a view of snowfall]()