First impressions of Modena: balsamic vinegar and morning markets
I arrived in Modena yesterday afternoon after a short 40-minute train ride from Bologna. The transition was seamless - just enough time to finish my coffee and watch the Italian countryside roll by. My hotel is a modest but clean place near the historic center, perfect for exploring the city on foot.
This morning I woke up early, as usual. The hotel breakfast doesn't start until 7:30, but I was ready to go by 7:00, so I headed out for a morning walk through the quiet streets. There's something magical about experiencing a city before it fully awakens - you get to witness the daily routines that visitors who sleep in never see.
The morning was brisk at just 6°C with mostly cloudy skies, but my Norwegian blood found it perfectly manageable with just a light jacket. I noticed a yellow wind warning is in effect until this evening, though the coastal areas will bear the brunt of it.
I made my way to the Mercato Albinelli, Modena's historic covered market. I arrived at 7:50 for the 8:00 opening and found myself waiting alongside a handful of locals who were clearly doing their weekend shopping. The market opened right on time, and I followed the locals inside.
The market was a feast for the senses - stalls of fresh produce arranged with artistic precision, butchers preparing cuts of meat, and the unmistakable aroma of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. I wandered through, taking it all in, before stopping at a small coffee counter where I ordered an espresso. The barista nodded approvingly at my pronunciation - my Italian is slowly improving after nearly three months in the country.
What struck me immediately about Modena compared to Bologna is the more intimate scale. While Bologna has its grand porticoes and expansive piazzas, Modena feels more contained and approachable. The architecture has a similar terracotta palette, but with its own distinct character.
After the market, I made my way to Piazza Grande, part of Modena's UNESCO World Heritage site along with the Cathedral and the Ghirlandina Tower. The morning light was casting beautiful shadows across the piazza, and I spent some time simply observing the space, how people moved through it, the rhythm of the city beginning to take shape.
The Cathedral was my next stop - a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture that dates back to the 12th century. I was one of the first visitors of the day, which meant I could appreciate the interior in relative solitude. The geometric patterns of the marble floor and the play of light through the windows created a sense of timeless serenity.
One thing I've noticed is how my approach to travel has evolved since those first weeks of my journey. I'm less concerned with ticking off attractions and more interested in understanding the essence of each place. This morning, I found myself content to sit in the Cathedral for nearly 30 minutes, simply observing the space and the few locals who came in for a moment of reflection before continuing with their day.
After leaving the Cathedral, I decided it was time to address my primary reason for visiting Modena - balsamic vinegar. I'd researched several acetaias (balsamic vinegar producers) beforehand and had my heart set on visiting Acetaia Giusti, which dates back to 1605 and is the oldest producer in the region.
I arrived at their city center shop and discovered they offer tours of their aging facility by appointment. I managed to secure a spot for tomorrow morning, which I'm looking forward to immensely. In the meantime, I had a fascinating conversation with the shop assistant about the traditional production methods and the DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) certification that guarantees authentic traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena.
The assistant explained that true traditional balsamic vinegar is aged for a minimum of 12 years in a series of wooden barrels of decreasing size, allowing the vinegar to concentrate and develop its complex flavors. She let me sample three different ages - 12, 18, and 25 years. The progression was remarkable, from bright and tangy to increasingly complex, sweet, and syrupy.
I left with a small bottle of the 12-year vinegar, which was an investment at €45, but after tasting the difference between this and what we typically call balsamic vinegar in supermarkets, I understand why. This isn't just a condiment; it's a culinary treasure.
It's now approaching noon, and I'm sitting in a small café near Piazza Grande, watching the Saturday crowds grow as the morning progresses. I notice there's a workshop on natural vibrational techniques starting soon nearby, and several interesting events happening later today, including a tango matinée and a guided tour of the Churches of San Pietro and San Francesco d'Assisi. I'm contemplating joining one of these to get a more local experience.
For now, though, I'm content to continue my explorations at my own pace. The forecast mentions showers coming later this afternoon, so I'll probably find a traditional Modenese restaurant for lunch and then visit the Enzo Ferrari Museum before the rain arrives.
I already feel a rhythm to this city that's different from Bologna or Florence - less touristic, more authentic in some ways. The focus here seems to be on quality and tradition rather than grandeur, which resonates with me. I'm looking forward to discovering more of Modena's culinary heritage over the next few days, especially experiencing the proper tortellini in brodo that the region is known for.
88 days into this journey, and Italy continues to surprise me with each new destination. Every city has its own character, its own pace, its own traditions. Modena may be smaller than its neighbors, but its cultural impact through food alone makes it a worthy addition to my Italian exploration.
Nice one, i found this website: Modena - Cities.travel!
Distance walked today: 6.2 km