Day 124: The hidden beauty of Petra under a winter sky

The sun has set over the ancient city of Petra, and I'm back in my hotel room warming up after a day that can only be described as magical.

After my rainy morning start and patience waiting for the weather to clear, I finally made my way to the entrance around 10:30. The rain had stopped, but the air remained crisp and cool at about 8°C. Perfect hiking weather, if you ask me.

The walk through the Siq was everything I had imagined and more. This narrow gorge with its towering walls creates a natural dramatic entrance to the ancient city. The sandstone walls, still damp from the morning rain, had taken on deeper, richer hues of red, orange, and purple.

And then, that moment. That incredible moment when the narrow passage suddenly opens and reveals the Treasury (Al-Khazneh). I've seen countless photographs, but nothing prepares you for the scale and the intricate details of this 2,000-year-old façade carved directly into the rose-colored rock. The recent rain had darkened parts of the stone, creating an even more dramatic contrast against the areas catching sunlight.

I spent nearly an hour just sitting across from the Treasury, watching how the light changed as clouds moved across the sky. A few other tourists were around, but far fewer than I'd expected. The morning rain had apparently deterred many visitors, which felt like a gift.

From there, I continued deeper into the site, following the main colonnaded street and exploring the numerous tombs carved into the surrounding cliffs. The High Place of Sacrifice was exactly as the local guide had promised – a steep climb rewarded with panoramic views that made me feel tiny against the vast landscape and ancient history surrounding me.

One of the day's unexpected highlights was meeting an elderly Bedouin man who was selling tea near one of the less-visited viewpoints. When I asked him about growing up in Petra (many Bedouin families lived within the site until the 1980s), he shared stories of his childhood playing among these ruins. "This was our playground," he said, gesturing to the vast archaeological wonder that tourists pay good money to visit. I couldn't help but imagine what it must have been like to call this place home.

After about six hours of exploration, my legs were starting to feel the effects of countless stairs and uneven terrain. I made my way back toward the entrance, stopping frequently to photograph the changing light on the rock formations as the afternoon progressed.

The temperature dropped quickly as the sun began to set, reminding me that winter in the desert is not to be underestimated. I was grateful for the extra layers I'd packed this morning.

Back in Wadi Musa (the modern town adjacent to Petra), I found a small restaurant for dinner where I enjoyed mansaf, the traditional Jordanian dish of lamb cooked in a yogurt sauce served over rice. The perfect warming meal after a day of hiking.

Now, as I sit in my hotel room reviewing today's photos, I'm struck by how differently Petra appeared in today's conditions compared to the typical sunny postcard images. The clouds, the dampness, and the winter light created a moody atmosphere that felt almost mystical.

Tomorrow, I plan to return to explore some of the further reaches of the site – particularly the Monastery, which requires a climb of some 800 steps. I've heard the views are worth every step.

The day count on my journey stands at 124, with 376 days remaining. Nearly a quarter of the way through this adventure, and I'm sitting in a place that's been waiting for visitors for two millennia. It puts things in perspective.

!The Treasury with dramatic clouds after rain The Treasury (Al-Khazneh) with dramatic clouds after the morning rain

!View from the High Place of Sacrifice The view from the High Place of Sacrifice - worth every step of the climb