A chilly morning in Petra: contemplating what remains to be seen
It's just after 9:00 in the morning, and I'm sitting in the small hotel café with a steaming cup of black coffee, watching the clouds drift across the sandstone mountains that surround Petra. The forecast says rain later today, which seems to be a recurring theme of my visit. I arrived 10 minutes early for breakfast, only to find the café wasn't quite ready yet. The server smiled apologetically, but I assured him there was no rush.
The temperature outside is a brisk 5°C – much colder than I expected for Jordan. When I packed for this journey all those months ago, I imagined Jordan as a perpetually warm desert country. The reality of a Jordanian winter has been quite different, especially here in Petra where the elevation makes everything cooler and the stone walls of the narrow Siq create wind tunnels that cut right through you.
Yesterday's exploration of Petra was magnificent. The rain-darkened Treasury contrasted dramatically with patches of sunlight breaking through the clouds, creating a photographer's dream. I spent nearly six hours exploring, climbing all the way to the High Place of Sacrifice where the panoramic views were worth every labored breath on the steep ascent.
One of the most meaningful moments was my conversation with an elderly Bedouin man selling tea near one of the lesser-visited viewpoints. He spoke of playing among these ancient ruins as a child, long before Petra became the tourism destination it is today. His stories gave me a perspective that no guidebook could offer – the living connection between this archaeological wonder and the people who have called this landscape home for generations.
As I sit here planning today's adventure, I'm conscious of time slipping away. I've been traveling for 125 days now, with 375 remaining. A quarter of my journey has already passed, and while that still leaves plenty of time, I can't help but feel the weight of each day. Tomorrow I'll be leaving Petra behind, so today needs to count.
My plan is to tackle the 800+ steps to the Monastery (Ad-Deir) today. It's supposedly the most strenuous climb in Petra, but the reward is one of the most impressive monuments in the entire archaeological park. I've saved it for today, wanting to build up to it after yesterday's extensive walking.
I'm also hoping to explore some of the Royal Tombs that I only glimpsed yesterday. The Urn Tomb with its massive façade particularly caught my eye, but by the time I passed it yesterday, my legs were protesting after hours of walking and climbing.
The café is filling up now with other travelers planning their day. I overhear conversations in German, French, and what sounds like Japanese. Everyone has the same look of anticipation mixed with the slight weariness that comes from walking Petra's endless paths.
My coffee is finished, and the clouds outside are darkening. If the forecast is right, I have maybe 3-4 hours before the afternoon showers begin. Time to lace up my hiking boots, fill my water bottle, and head out. The Monastery awaits, and I've got 800 steps between me and another ancient wonder.
Day 125 of 500: The countdown continues, and Petra has already earned its place among the highlights of this journey.