Last morning in Jerusalem: packing up and preparing for Bethlehem
It's 7:20 in the morning, and I'm sitting by the window in my hotel room, watching Jerusalem slowly wake up. The sky is mostly cloudy, and the temperature display on my phone shows a chilly 7Β°C. My bag is half-packed on the bed behind me, and I've got my coffee steaming next to my laptop.
I've been up since 5:30, unable to sleep with thoughts of today's journey to Bethlehem. The bus leaves at 10:30, so I have plenty of time, but I still feel that familiar pre-departure restlessness. It's been five days in Jerusalem β longer than I initially planned, but not nearly enough to truly understand this complex city.
Last night, I watched the news about the demolition of the UNRWA headquarters in East Jerusalem. The tension was palpable throughout the city yesterday, with increased security presence around Sheikh Jarrah. These events remind me of the layers of complexity that exist here β beyond the ancient stones and religious sites lies a modern reality filled with ongoing struggles.
I've also been thinking about the daycare tragedy that happened while I was here. Two infants died at an unlicensed facility in the Romema neighborhood. I overheard people discussing it at cafΓ©s, the pain and anger evident in their voices. Life and death continue their dance, regardless of the historical significance of a place.
As I look back on my time in Jerusalem, I'm grateful for the experiences I've had:
- Walking among ancient olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane
- Standing before the Western Wall at dawn
- Navigating the narrow streets of the Old City's four quarters
- Exploring the archaeological treasures at the Israel Museum
- Watching the faithful at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Each experience has added another piece to the puzzle of understanding this place, though the puzzle remains far from complete.
I check my watch β 7:35 now. I should finish packing soon and head down for breakfast. The hotel offers a simple but delicious spread of local breads, cheeses, vegetables, and fruits. I've grown particularly fond of the za'atar-covered flatbread with labneh.
As I prepare to leave for Bethlehem, I realize I've been in Israel for almost two weeks now. From the Sea of Galilee to Nazareth and Jerusalem, this country has challenged my perceptions and deepened my understanding of both ancient history and modern conflicts. I wonder what Bethlehem will add to this journey.
The weather forecast shows showers this morning, then clearing up tomorrow with temperatures rising to 15Β°C. I'll need to pack my rain jacket at the top of my bag for easy access.
I've been traveling for 149 days now β just under halfway through my 500-day journey. Sometimes it feels like I've been away from home forever; other times, it seems like I just left yesterday. With 351 days remaining, I wonder what transformations still await me.
Time to finish packing and start the next chapter of this journey. Bethlehem awaits.