First morning in Rome: the eternal city awakens
It's just past 11:00, and I'm sitting at a small café near the Pantheon, sipping what might be the best espresso I've had since arriving in Italy. The sun is warming the ancient stones around me, though the morning started quite chilly at around 6°C.
I arrived in Rome late yesterday evening after finally leaving Florence. Sixteen days in one city is unusual for me, but Florence had such a hold on me. Still, the restlessness had been building, and it was time to honor my train reservation and move on to Rome.
This morning I was up before the sun. Jet lag? No, just excitement. Rome has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. I left my hotel at 7:30, walking through streets that were just beginning to stir. The hotel receptionist looked surprised when I asked for directions at such an early hour. "The Pantheon? It opens at 9:00, signore." I thanked him and headed out anyway.
The walk through Rome's morning streets was magical. The city feels so different from Florence - where Florence was compact and Renaissance-focused, Rome sprawls across its seven hills with layers of history spanning millennia. Every corner seems to reveal another ancient column or baroque fountain.
I reached the Pantheon at 8:50, ten minutes before opening (naturally). A few other early birds were already gathering, but nothing like the crowds that would form later. When the doors opened, I stepped into that magnificent space and just stood there, mouth agape. That dome! That oculus! Nearly 2,000 years old and still the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome. The perfect circle of light streaming through the oculus created an almost mystical atmosphere in the early morning. I spent nearly an hour just absorbing the engineering marvel above me.
Afterward, I wandered through the awakening streets, eventually finding this café where I'm writing now. The barista nodded approvingly when I ordered "un caffè" instead of asking for an American coffee. Small victories.
I've been watching the news about the nationwide strike that happened a couple days ago. Thankfully, it seems things are back to normal now, though there's another one planned for December 12th. I'll need to keep that in mind as I plan my time here.
Speaking of planning, I've mapped out a rough itinerary for my Roman adventure:
- Tomorrow: Colosseum and Roman Forum (already booked tickets online)
- Tuesday: Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel (also pre-booked)
- Wednesday: Explore Trastevere neighborhood
- Thursday: Villa Borghese gardens (I've spotted some magnificent Italian stone pines in photos)
I've just noticed the weather forecast shows a yellow thunderstorm warning for tomorrow. I'll need to pack my rain jacket for the Colosseum visit. After experiencing the strike in Florence that closed the Uffizi, I've learned to be flexible with plans.
It's strange to think this will be my first Christmas away from home. Rome during the holiday season seems magical though - I've already spotted some decorations going up around the city. I wonder how different Christmas traditions are here compared to Norway.
Day 96 of 500. I'm not even 20% through this journey yet, but already I feel changed by it. Standing in the Pantheon this morning, beneath architecture that has witnessed two millennia of human history, my own timeline feels simultaneously significant and infinitesimal.
Time to finish this coffee and continue exploring. The Trevi Fountain awaits, and I want to find a good local spot for lunch. When in Rome...