The unexpected joy of rainy day Istanbul

The rain started tapping against my hotel window around noon today, a gentle patter that matched the rhythm of my typing as I caught up on some emails. I'd planned to visit Topkapi Palace this afternoon, but the weather had other ideas. Looking out at the increasingly gray sky, I made a quick decision to head out immediately rather than waiting for it to clear.

The streets of Istanbul take on a different character in the rain. The cobblestones glisten, reflecting the colorful shop signs and minarets that punctuate the skyline. Locals moved with purpose under umbrellas while tourists like me huddled under awnings, recalculating our plans.

"You need umbrella, my friend?" A shopkeeper called out as I passed, already pulling out a stack of folding umbrellas in various colors. I smiled and shook my head - I'd packed one this morning, having checked the forecast before leaving. The vendor shrugged good-naturedly and turned to the next potential customer.

I arrived at Topkapi Palace at 13:15, fifteen minutes after it opened following the midday prayer break. Despite the rain, a decent crowd had gathered, though nothing like what I imagine the summer months bring. The palace complex sprawls across the first hill of Istanbul, offering views of both the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn.

Walking through the Imperial Gate into the First Courtyard, I was immediately struck by the sense of history. This was the administrative heart of an empire that once stretched across three continents. The rain had softened to a drizzle by now, creating a misty atmosphere that somehow made the experience more intimate.

In the Second Courtyard, I paused to admire the Tower of Justice rising above the surrounding buildings. A group of school children hurried past, their excited chatter mixing with the sound of raindrops. Their teacher, a woman with a kind face and patient demeanor, was explaining something about the palace kitchens in Turkish.

The highlight was undoubtedly the Treasury section, where the famous Topkapi Dagger sits alongside other imperial treasures. The 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond caught the light in a way that seemed almost supernatural. I found myself wondering about the hands that had crafted these items, the lives lived in service to creating beauty for the powerful.

After nearly two hours exploring the palace complex, I emerged back into the rain, which had picked up again. Rather than heading straight back to my hotel, I decided to find a café where I could sit and process what I'd seen.

A small place called Çay Bahçesi (Tea Garden) just a few blocks from the palace looked inviting. Inside, the warmth and aroma of brewing tea enveloped me. I found a small table by the window and ordered Turkish tea and a plate of baklava. The tea arrived in a traditional tulip-shaped glass, set on a small saucer. The baklava was dripping with honey, the phyllo layers perfectly crisp.

As I sat watching the rain create patterns on the window, I thought about how different this experience was from yesterday's bustling Grand Bazaar adventure. Both quintessentially Istanbul, yet worlds apart in atmosphere.

A nearby table of older men were engaged in what appeared to be a serious game of backgammon. The decisive clicks of the pieces and occasional exclamations punctuated the gentle hum of conversation in the café. One man, noticing my interest, nodded toward the board with a smile, as if inviting me to appreciate a particularly clever move.

I'm starting to understand why Istanbul has captivated travelers for centuries. It's not just the grand monuments or the geographical uniqueness of straddling two continents. It's these moments of everyday life that somehow feel both foreign and familiar simultaneously.

The rain is still falling as I write this from my hotel room. I've decided to use the weather as an excuse to plan the remaining days of my Istanbul stay. Tomorrow, I'm thinking of visiting the Basilica Cistern, which seems an appropriate destination for a potentially rainy day. And I still want to explore more of the Asian side before I leave on Saturday.

There's a tourism exhibition happening in the city right now - EMITT 2026 according to a poster I saw - but I think I'll skip it. My preference has always been to experience places directly rather than through curated displays.

For now, I'm content with my rainy day explorations. Sometimes the best travel experiences come when plans change and you simply follow where the day leads you.

!View from Topkapi Palace through the rain The view of the Bosphorus from Topkapi Palace, slightly misty through the rain