Morning exploration of the terraces and ancient city
There's something magical about being the first person at a famous site. This morning I set my alarm for 6:30, determined to experience Pamukkale's famous white terraces without the crowds. As expected, I was waiting at the entrance when they opened at 8:00. The ticket attendant seemed amused to see someone so eager, especially in February.
The terraces were even more spectacular than they appeared from my hotel balcony yesterday. The calcium deposits create these otherworldly pools that cascade down the hillside like a frozen waterfall. In the early morning light, the white limestone gleamed against the blue sky. I removed my shoes as required and waded through the warm mineral water. The sensation was strange - smooth in some places, rough in others, and the water temperature varied between pleasantly warm and surprisingly hot.
What struck me most was the silence. Being essentially alone at a UNESCO World Heritage site is a rare privilege. I took my time, moving slowly from pool to pool, watching how the light changed the appearance of the water. At one point, I sat at the edge of a terrace and just stared out at the valley below, thinking about how these formations have been developing for thousands of years. It put my 500-day journey into perspective - just a tiny blip in the grand scheme of things.
Hierapolis: walking through ancient streets
After about an hour at the terraces, I continued up the hill to explore the ruins of Hierapolis. The ancient city was founded around 190 BCE, and walking through it felt like stepping back in time. The main street, lined with columns, stretches for over a kilometer. I followed it past temples, bathhouses, and what would have been shops and homes.
The theater was particularly impressive - built to seat 15,000 people and with views that would have distracted from any performance. I climbed to the top row and sat for a while, imagining what it would have been like filled with spectators in Roman times.
One of the most fascinating parts was the Plutonium - a cave that emits toxic gases. In ancient times, it was considered an entrance to the underworld. The priests would perform "miraculous" demonstrations by entering the cave while holding their breath and emerging unharmed, while sacrificial animals would die from the fumes. Even now, there's a warning sign keeping visitors at a safe distance.
I found a small grove of cypress trees near the northern necropolis and spent some time photographing them against the backdrop of ancient tombs. The juxtaposition of living trees and ancient stone was compelling.
Cleopatra's pool and unexpected companions
By mid-morning, a few more visitors had arrived, but still far fewer than I imagine would be here in summer. Around 11:00, I decided to splurge on entry to the Ancient Pool, also known as Cleopatra's Pool. Legend says this is where Cleopatra herself once bathed, though historians debate this claim.
The pool is filled with warm mineral water and has ancient marble columns lying at the bottom - you can actually swim among the ruins! I changed into swimming trunks and eased into the 36°C water. The sensation was incredible - like floating in history.
While I was enjoying the pool, I noticed two familiar faces entering - Sarah and Emma, the Australian travelers I'd met in Izmir! We recognized each other immediately, and they waved enthusiastically.
"Ruben! We didn't expect to see you here," Emma called out as they approached the pool.
It turns out they had also decided to visit Pamukkale after our time in Izmir, though they're staying at a different hotel. We spent about an hour together in the pool, sharing travel stories and comparing notes on our experiences so far. They're heading to Cappadocia tomorrow, while I'm still figuring out my next destination.
After drying off and changing, we had lunch together at the small café near the pool. They showed me photos from their morning hike around the northern side of the terraces, an area I hadn't explored yet. We exchanged contact information again (I had lost the paper where I'd written their details in Izmir) and promised to stay in touch.
Afternoon reflections
Now I'm back at my hotel, taking a short break before heading out to explore more of the surrounding area this afternoon. The weather is perfect - sunny and mild at 13°C - ideal for walking. According to my phone, there's a winter carnival starting tomorrow in nearby Denizli, but I'm not sure if I'll still be here for it.
I've been in Turkey for three weeks now, and I find myself thinking about where to go next. The restlessness is starting to creep in again. Perhaps it's time to consider leaving Turkey altogether and exploring a new country. I've heard good things about Greece this time of year, and it would be a natural next step geographically.
As I sit here on day 177 of my journey, with 323 days remaining, I'm struck by how quickly time is passing. I've seen so much already, but there's still so much world out there. I need to make the most of every day.
I think I'll spend some time this evening researching options and maybe book my next move. But first, I'm heading back out to make the most of this beautiful afternoon in Pamukkale.