Exploring ancient Smyrna and finding my footing in Izmir
I've been in Izmir for just over 24 hours now, and I'm still getting used to the rhythm of this coastal city. After yesterday's spontaneous decision to come here instead of Antalya (sometimes you just have to listen to that inner voice), I woke up early this morning, ready to properly explore.
The hotel room window faces east, so I was up with the first rays of sunlight. By 7:30, I had mapped out today's plan over a cup of Turkish coffee in the hotel's small breakfast area. The coffee here is nothing like what I'm used to - thick, strong, and served in tiny cups with a glass of water on the side. It certainly does the job though.
I arrived at the Ancient Agora of Smyrna at 9:50, ten minutes before opening time. A few other early visitors were already gathered near the entrance, but it was nothing compared to the crowds at Pamukkale. The agora dates back to the Hellenistic and Roman periods, and walking through these ancient ruins gave me a sense of how important Smyrna (now Izmir) was as a commercial center.
The most impressive structures are the remains of the basilica and the reconstructed colonnades. Standing in the middle of what was once a bustling marketplace, I tried to imagine the conversations, negotiations, and daily life that unfolded here two thousand years ago. History has layers, just like the archaeological excavations reveal.
![Ancient columns standing against the morning sky, with modern Izmir visible in the background]()
The weather was cooperating - partly sunny and about 8°C - perfect for walking around ruins without overheating. According to my weather app, rain is expected later this afternoon, so I'm glad I started with outdoor activities.
After about an hour and a half at the agora, I made my way to Kadifekale, the "Velvet Castle" that sits on a hill overlooking the city. The climb was steep but rewarding. From the top, I could see all of Izmir spreading out to the Aegean Sea. The castle itself dates back to the 4th century BCE when Alexander the Great's generals ruled the region. Not much remains of the original structure, but the panoramic views alone were worth the hike.
I found a quiet spot among the ruins to sit and catch my breath. A stray cat approached, cautious at first, then decided I was harmless enough to curl up nearby. We shared a moment of companionable silence, both of us taking in the view of the city below.
"174 days," I whispered to myself, counting the days since I left Kristiansand. The cat flicked its ears but otherwise ignored my musings. Sometimes I need to say these numbers out loud, to make them real. 174 days traveled, 326 days remaining. The journey is unfolding one day at a time.
By 11:30, I was back in the city center, navigating the narrow streets of Kemeralti Bazaar. This centuries-old market is a maze of shops selling everything from spices and coffee to textiles and jewelry. I wandered without a specific destination, letting the sights and smells guide me. Eventually, I found a small café tucked away in a corner where I ordered a Turkish tea and watched the market life unfold.
I'm supposed to meet Sarah and Emma, the Australian travelers I helped yesterday, at 2:30 PM to finalize plans for our Ephesus trip tomorrow. I have a feeling that exploring those ancient ruins will be the highlight of my time in this region. There's something about walking in the footsteps of history that puts my own journey in perspective.
As I sit here in the hotel lobby at noon, typing this update, I can see clouds gathering outside. The forecast was right about the rain. I'll probably spend the afternoon exploring the Archaeological Museum if the weather turns, then meet the Australians for our planning session.
Izmir is proving to be a city of contrasts - ancient ruins alongside modern buildings, traditional markets next to shopping malls, and a beautiful waterfront promenade that blends the natural and urban landscapes. I'm glad I followed that impulse to come here instead of sticking to my original plan.
Sometimes the best discoveries happen when you least expect them.
Day 174 of 500