Contemplating contrasts in Cappadocia
I've been sitting on a bench in Göreme for the past hour, watching tourists wander by with their maps and cameras. The air is cool – about 7°C according to my phone – but the sun occasionally breaks through the clouds to warm my face. After yesterday's underground exploration of Derinkuyu and the balloon ride the day before, I needed some quiet time to process the contrasts of this remarkable place.
This morning began with a simple breakfast at my cave hotel – warm bread, local honey, olives, and cheese. The coffee was decent, though I added an extra spoonful to strengthen it. The hotel owner asked if I was going ballooning today, and I had to explain that I'd already gone two days ago. "Bad luck with the weather now," he said. "No balloons for almost two weeks."
I checked the weather forecast on my phone and saw why – cloudy conditions are expected to continue for several more days. I feel fortunate that I arrived when I did, managing to experience the balloon ride before this stretch of unfavorable weather. Some travelers I met at breakfast looked quite disappointed as they'd come specifically for the balloon experience.
After breakfast, I set out for a walk through Göreme proper. My plan was to visit some pottery studios that Elif, my guide from yesterday, had recommended. The first studio was closed (despite the sign saying it should be open), but the second welcomed me in. I watched a master potter demonstrate the traditional techniques on his wheel, creating a delicate vase from a lump of clay in what seemed like seconds. His hands moved with such confidence, like they could feel exactly how the clay needed to be shaped.
"This clay comes from the Red Valley," the potter explained. "Special minerals give it the color and quality." I asked about the designs painted on many of the finished pieces, and he showed me how they use natural pigments to create the intricate patterns.
I purchased a small bowl – practical enough to use but beautiful enough to remind me of this place. The potter wrapped it carefully in paper and bubble wrap, assuring me it would survive my journey.
Walking back toward the center of town, I found myself reflecting on the vertical extremes of Cappadocia. From floating 800 meters above the fairy chimneys to descending eight levels underground at Derinkuyu, this landscape invites exploration in all dimensions. The human relationship with this unusual terrain fascinates me – carving homes from soft tufa rock, seeking safety underground, and now soaring above it all in colorful balloons.
I stopped at a small café for lunch around noon, ordering mercimek çorbası (lentil soup) and a simple salad. The soup came with freshly baked bread that was still warm. While eating, I reviewed my photos from yesterday's underground adventure, still amazed by the ingenuity of those ancient engineers. How did they manage to create such an elaborate ventilation system without modern tools or science?
With my flight to Istanbul scheduled for Thursday, I'm trying to decide how to spend my final full day in Cappadocia tomorrow. I'm torn between hiking in the Rose Valley to see more of the landscape on foot or visiting the Open Air Museum again to spend more time with the frescoes. The weather forecast suggests it might rain tomorrow afternoon, so perhaps the museum would be the safer choice.
Sitting here now on this bench, watching the clouds cast shifting shadows across the unusual rock formations, I'm struck by how this place feels both ancient and timeless. The fairy chimneys have stood for millennia, shaped slowly by wind and water, while humans have come and gone, leaving their mark in caves and underground cities.
I notice a tall pine tree growing improbably from between two rock formations across the street. Somehow it's found enough soil and water to thrive in this semi-arid environment. There's something poetic about that determination to grow despite challenging conditions.
A group of cats has gathered nearby, lounging in a patch of sunlight that's broken through the clouds. One particularly confident tabby has approached me, rubbing against my leg and purring. I scratch behind its ears and wonder if it has a home or if it's one of the many strays that seem to populate every Turkish town I've visited.
As I prepare to head back to my hotel, I'm grateful for this quiet afternoon of contemplation. Travel isn't just about constant movement and activity – these moments of stillness are equally valuable. Tomorrow will bring new explorations, but for now, I'm content to simply be present in this remarkable landscape.