The morning after
It's 08:20 and I'm sitting in the hotel breakfast room with a cup of Arabic coffee that's gone cold while I've been staring at my laptop screen. The room is nearly empty - just me, an elderly German couple quietly reading newspapers, and a businessman in a suit checking his phone.
I didn't sleep much. Maybe three hours total, and those were fragmented, full of the sound of sirens that weren't actually there.
The hotel staff are moving around with their usual efficiency, refilling the bread baskets, wiping down tables. There's something surreal about the normalcy of it all. The breakfast buffet is exactly as it was yesterday morning - the same array of hummus, labneh, olives, fresh bread. The same cheerful "sabah al-khair" from the staff.
But everything feels different.
I keep checking the news on my phone. The official reports say three missiles were intercepted, a fourth landed in an uninhabited area in the south. No casualties. No property damage. The Jordan Armed Forces remain on high alert. That phrase - "remain on high alert" - keeps circling in my mind.
The businessman just got up and left, phone pressed to his ear, speaking rapidly in Arabic. The German couple turned a page in their newspaper. Life continues.
I'm trying to figure out what I'm supposed to do with this day.
My original plan was to visit the Citadel this morning, then maybe walk through Rainbow Street. I have a list of things I wanted to see in Amman - the Roman amphitheater, more of the city's neighborhoods, another cafΓ© to try their coffee. But that list feels strange now, like it belongs to a different version of yesterday.
The thing that keeps striking me is how calm everyone is. The hotel staff, the other guests, the people I can see through the window walking past on the street below. There's no panic, no visible fear. Just... Tuesday morning in Amman.
I think about the family at the museum yesterday - how quickly they moved, but without chaos. I think about the security guard's steady voice: "Stay calm, stay inside." I think about how we all just sat there in that gallery for three hours, strangers becoming something else through proximity and shared experience.
The sun is streaming through the breakfast room windows. According to my weather app, it's going to reach 35Β°C today. Clear skies, moderate winds. Perfect sightseeing weather.
I've been in situations before where plans changed - trains cancelled, museums closed, weather turning bad. But this is different. This isn't about logistics or inconvenience. This is about sitting in a hotel room last night, hearing sirens, and realizing how quickly the familiar can become foreign.
The German woman just smiled at me across the room. A small, kind smile, like she knows I'm processing something.
I'm thinking about my booked ticket to leave on July 22nd - that's two days from now. Part of me wants to leave earlier, to get on the first bus or flight out. But another part of me feels like leaving now would be... what? Disrespectful? Cowardly? I'm not even sure what word I'm looking for.
The people here don't have the option to leave. This is their home. They live with this reality - the possibility of missiles, of sirens, of needing to shelter in place. And they still make breakfast, go to work, smile at confused tourists in breakfast rooms.
I keep thinking about what I wrote yesterday morning, before everything happened. I was writing about how Amman doesn't sleep, about the city's energy. I was planning my day, excited to explore more. That version of me feels very far away now.
My phone buzzes - it's my mother. She must have seen the news. I'll call her after breakfast, let her know I'm fine. I can already hear her voice, the worry she'll try to hide. She'll ask if I'm coming home early. I don't know what I'll tell her.
The breakfast room is filling up now. A family with two young children just came in, the kids immediately heading for the pastries. Their parents are chatting with each other, planning their day. The children are laughing about something.
Life continues.
I'm going to finish this coffee, cold as it is. Then I'm going to go back to my room and make a decision about today. Maybe I'll visit the Citadel after all. Maybe I'll just walk around the neighborhood, get a feel for the city in daylight, in normalcy. Maybe I'll spend the day reorganizing my route, figuring out how to get from here to Chamonix by October 7th.
Or maybe I'll just sit in King Hussein Park for a while, under whatever trees they have there, and let myself feel whatever it is I'm feeling.
The waiter just refilled my coffee cup without me asking. Fresh, hot coffee. A small kindness.
I think that's what I'll remember most from yesterday - not the fear, though there was fear, but the small kindnesses. The security guard's calm voice. The woman who shared her water. The museum director checking on everyone. The hotel receptionist who asked if I was okay when I came back last night.
This is what resilience looks like, I think. Not the absence of fear, but the presence of kindness in spite of it.
The sun is bright outside. The city is awake. And I'm still here, trying to understand what it means to be a traveler in a place where some days, the world reminds you how fragile everything is.
I'll write more later. Right now, I need to call my mother.