First impressions of Istanbul: where continents collide

Day 161 - Istanbul, Turkey - February 3, 2026

The journey from Beirut to Istanbul began at an ungodly hour this morning. My flight departed at 5:45 AM, which meant arriving at the airport by 3:45 (of course I was there by 3:35). The early departure was worth it though, as it allowed me to land in Istanbul before 8:00, giving me nearly a full day to begin exploring this fascinating city where Europe meets Asia.

After clearing immigration and collecting my bag, I navigated to my hotel in the Sultanahmet district. I'd chosen this area specifically for its proximity to many of the historical sites I want to visit. The hotel is modest but comfortable - a small, family-run place with warm hospitality and decent wifi. The owner, Mehmet, greeted me with a cup of Turkish tea and a map of the city, circling his recommended spots and offering tips on navigating the public transport system.

"You must see Hagia Sophia first," he insisted. "It is the soul of Istanbul."

After freshening up, I set out to follow his advice. The morning air was crisp - just 2°C according to my phone - but the clear sky promised at least some sunshine. I wrapped my scarf tighter and set off on foot, eager to begin exploring.

The magnificent Hagia Sophia

Nothing quite prepares you for your first glimpse of Hagia Sophia. Standing in the vast open plaza before it, I felt small in the shadow of nearly 1,500 years of history. This building has been a Byzantine cathedral, an Ottoman mosque, a museum, and now a mosque again - a physical embodiment of Istanbul's layered history.

I joined the line of tourists and worshippers, removing my shoes before entering. Inside, the space opens up dramatically, the massive dome seeming to hover impossibly above. Enormous medallions with Arabic calligraphy hang alongside Christian mosaics partially uncovered on the upper levels. The juxtaposition is striking - a visual representation of the cultural collisions that have shaped this city.

I spent nearly two hours wandering through Hagia Sophia, my neck craned upward most of the time. The building's engineering alone is remarkable - especially considering it was built in the 6th century. The way the light filters through the windows around the base of the dome creates an almost otherworldly atmosphere.

Lunch and a ferry ride

By midday, my stomach was reminding me that breakfast had been a hasty affair at Beirut airport. I found a small lokanta (restaurant) near the waterfront and ordered what the waiter recommended - a plate of köfte (meatballs) with rice and grilled vegetables. The simple meal was delicious, especially paired with ayran, a salty yogurt drink that I wasn't sure about at first sip but found refreshing by the end.

With renewed energy, I decided to take advantage of the clear day and hop on one of the ferries crossing the Bosphorus. There's something profound about standing on a boat in the middle of a strait that divides two continents. To my left, Europe. To my right, Asia. Few cities in the world can offer such a geographical distinction.

The ferry was crowded with a mix of tourists and locals using it as regular transportation. I found a spot along the railing and watched as we pulled away from the European shore, the skyline of minarets and modern buildings receding. The wind was biting on the water, but the views were worth the chill. Seagulls followed our wake, occasionally diving for scraps thrown by passengers.

The Asian side

I disembarked at Kadıköy on the Asian side, immediately noting the different energy. While the European side feels more overtly touristic with its concentration of historical sites, this area had a more lived-in, contemporary atmosphere. Streets were lined with cafés, bookshops, and produce markets.

Wandering without a specific destination, I found myself in a small park where several impressive cypress trees caught my eye. Their tall, slender forms reached skyward like natural minarets echoing the built ones visible across the water. I paused to take a few photos, noting the perfect symmetry of their growth.

At a café with a view back toward the European shore, I ordered my first proper Turkish coffee. The server brought it on a small copper tray with a glass of water and a piece of Turkish delight. The coffee was rich and intense, with grounds settling at the bottom of the tiny cup. I sipped it slowly, savoring the moment and watching the ferries crisscross the strait.

Evening reflections

As the sun began to set, I caught a ferry back to the European side. The timing was perfect - the western sky turned spectacular shades of orange and pink, while the eastern sky deepened to indigo. The minarets and domes of the old city were silhouetted against this dramatic backdrop, and the lights along the bridges spanning the Golden Horn began to twinkle on.

I'm back at my hotel now, feet sore from walking but mind buzzing with impressions. It's only been one day, but Istanbul has already captured my imagination. There's so much more to explore - the Grand Bazaar, Topkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque, and countless neighborhoods each with their own character.

Sitting here, I can hear the evening call to prayer echoing from multiple mosques, the sounds overlapping in a hauntingly beautiful chorus. It's a reminder of how deeply woven religion is into the fabric of daily life here.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Grand Bazaar and test my negotiation skills (which are admittedly poor). I've been warned by Mehmet to expect to pay more as a tourist, but to always counter with half the initial asking price. We'll see how that goes.

I'm also intrigued by news I overheard of an international humanitarian conference for Gaza happening here in the city. It's a reminder that Istanbul isn't just a historical treasure but remains an important crossroads for international diplomacy, much as it has been throughout its history.

As I approach the one-third mark of my journey, I find myself increasingly drawn to these places of intersection - where cultures, religions, and even continents meet. Perhaps there's something in these boundary spaces that speaks to my own search for meaning and transformation.

For now though, sleep calls. Tomorrow will bring new discoveries in this city of fascinating contradictions.