A candid shot of the Palais de l'Isle from across the canal in Annecy, France, captured on a smartphone. Morning light reflects off the still water of the Thiou canal. The 12th-century stone building is slightly off-center, with a glimpse of pastel-colored buildings along the bank. The image has a spontaneous, slightly imperfect composition
A lakeside view at Lake Annecy, France, taken from the Jardins de l'Europe. The water is clear and turquoise, with a few swans gliding in the distance. In the foreground, the massive trunk of an old plane tree is partially visible, slightly out of focus. The mountains are visible across the lake under a cloudy sky. The photo looks like a quick, authentic snapshot
A narrow cobblestone street in Annecy's old town, captured from a low angle. Stone bridges arch over a calm canal in the background. The terracotta rooftops of old buildings line the street. The lighting is soft morning light, with long shadows. The composition feels spontaneous, as if taken while walking, with no people in the frame

Blue waters and stone bridges: first impressions of Annecy

I arrived in Annecy yesterday afternoon, after a comfortable bus ride from Chamonix. The transition from mountains to lakeside was striking - trading the towering presence of Mont Blanc for the serene expanse of Lake Annecy's turquoise waters. My accommodation is a small guesthouse just a 10-minute walk from the old town, perfectly situated for exploration.

This morning I woke early, as usual, and was out the door by 8:20 for a 10-minute walk that got me to the old town by 8:30. Most shops weren't opening until 9:00 or 10:00, which left me with that familiar scenario of being the only tourist wandering the empty morning streets. There's something magical about experiencing a place before the crowds arrive - like having a private viewing of a beautiful painting.

Morning light on ancient stones

The canals that wind through Annecy's old town were still and reflective in the morning light, mirroring the pastel-colored buildings that line their banks. I crossed several stone bridges, each offering a different perspective of what I now understand why they call the "Venice of the Alps." The nickname makes perfect sense - though on a much smaller scale than Venice, there's the same enchanting quality of water and stone intertwined.

The Palais de l'Isle sits proudly in the middle of the Thiou canal, a 12th-century building that looks like a stone ship anchored in the water. It's been a prison, a courthouse, and now a museum. I arrived at 9:50, ten minutes before opening, and used the time to walk around its exterior, photographing it from different angles as the morning light shifted.

Inside, the small museum offered insights into local history and the building's varied uses over the centuries. What struck me most was how the structure had been adapted repeatedly over 800 years while maintaining its distinctive silhouette. There's something to be said for buildings that evolve while keeping their essence intact.

Lakeside wanderings

By late morning, I made my way to the lakeshore. Lake Annecy is reportedly one of Europe's cleanest lakes, and the clarity of the water certainly supports that claim. The Jardins de l'Europe extend along part of the shore - a peaceful green space where I spent some time watching swans glide across the water.

I was particularly drawn to a magnificent old plane tree near the water's edge, its massive trunk speaking to centuries of growth. The gardens have several impressive specimens, and I wandered slowly among them, appreciating their various shapes and textures against the backdrop of mountains and water.

A light lunch at a lakeside café gave me time to people-watch - locals jogging along the promenade, tourists taking photos, and children feeding the ducks (despite the signs asking them not to). The weather has been cooperative so far - cloudy but mild at 20°C, though I noticed the forecast is calling for showers later today.

Château contemplations

After lunch, I made my way up to the Château d'Annecy, which houses the local history museum. The climb offered increasingly beautiful views of the terracotta rooftops of the old town and the lake beyond. The château itself is an interesting mix of medieval defensive architecture and more refined Renaissance additions.

The museum collections were diverse - archaeological finds from the region, medieval sculptures, and Alpine landscape paintings. I was particularly drawn to the exhibition on local lacework traditions, appreciating the intricate patterns created with such patience and skill.

From the château's terrace, I could see dark clouds gathering over the mountains across the lake. According to my weather app, there's a yellow wind warning in effect until midnight. The changing weather seems to be encouraging visitors to make the most of the afternoon - the old town was noticeably busier when I descended than it had been this morning.

Reflections at 14:00

Now I'm back at a café in the old town, watching the sky darken as I sip an espresso and write. There's something about sitting beside a canal, surrounded by buildings that have witnessed centuries of human drama, that puts my own journey in perspective. I'm 39 days into my 500-day adventure - not even 10% complete. What will I be thinking when I reach the halfway point? Will I be a different person by day 500?

I'm planning to explore more of the old town this afternoon, perhaps find a cozy spot to wait out any rain that comes. For dinner, I've spotted a promising restaurant serving traditional Savoyard cuisine - the perfect opportunity to try some local cheese specialties.

Tomorrow, if the weather improves, I'd like to either rent a bicycle to circle the lake or take one of the boat tours. The lake is calling to me, and I want to experience it from the water rather than just from shore.

For now, though, I'm content to sit and observe, to let Annecy reveal itself to me slowly. The clouds are gathering, the wind is picking up, and I'm exactly where I need to be.