Monday musings in Milan
It's just past noon on a surprisingly pleasant November day in Milan. I'm sitting at a small café near the Brera district, people-watching and reflecting on my first full day in this vibrant city. The morning started early (as usual), with me stepping out of my hotel at 7:50 for an 8:00 opening at the Pinacoteca di Brera, only to discover that it actually opens at 8:30 on Mondays.
That unexpected half-hour gave me time to wander the nearly empty morning streets of the Brera neighborhood. There's something magical about experiencing a city as it wakes up - shopkeepers raising metal shutters, the first tourists consulting their maps, locals hurrying to work with their morning espressos. I found a small café and ordered a caffè - still adjusting to the Italian coffee portions after two months of travel. The barista smiled at my careful Italian pronunciation, then immediately switched to perfect English.
"First time in Milan?"
"Yes, just arrived yesterday."
"From?"
"Norway originally, but I've been traveling for a couple of months now."
He nodded approvingly. "Good time to visit. Not too many tourists, not too cold yet."
He was right - today's 18°C feels positively balmy for November. I checked the weather app this morning and saw that Kristiansand is hovering around 5°C today. The sunshine here is a welcome bonus.
The Brera Gallery was worth the wait - a stunning collection of Italian Renaissance paintings housed in a former monastery. I spent nearly three hours wandering through rooms filled with works by Caravaggio, Raphael, and Mantegna. The "Dead Christ" by Mantegna particularly struck me - the unusual perspective, the foreshortening, the raw humanity of it. I sat in front of it for nearly fifteen minutes, just taking it in.
After the gallery, I walked toward the Sforza Castle, stopping along the way to admire the architecture. Milan has this fascinating blend of medieval, Renaissance, and modern elements that somehow work together harmoniously. The castle itself is impressive - massive red brick walls that have stood for centuries. I wandered through the museums inside, particularly enjoying the Museum of Ancient Art with its collection of medieval and Renaissance sculptures.
Now, sitting here with a small panini and another coffee, I'm planning my afternoon. I managed to secure a ticket to see "The Last Supper" for 3:30 today - apparently quite lucky as they often book out weeks in advance. That gives me about two hours to continue exploring this area before heading to Santa Maria delle Grazie.
I've been thinking about taking a day trip to Lake Como tomorrow. The hotel receptionist mentioned it's only about an hour by train, and while November isn't the traditional season for visiting the Italian lakes, she assured me it's still beautiful and far less crowded. The weather forecast shows sunshine continuing, though there are fog warnings for later in the week.
Day 69 of this journey, and I'm settling into a rhythm that feels sustainable. The initial anxiety about being away from home for so long has faded, replaced by a comfortable familiarity with the process of arriving, exploring, and moving on. I'm no longer counting every day, though the milestone of 500 days still looms in the distance.
I wonder sometimes what I'll be like when I return. Will 500 days of new experiences fundamentally change who I am? Or will I simply be the same person with more stories to tell? These are the kinds of thoughts that surface when you're alone in a foreign city, watching strangers go about their days.
Time to pay my bill and continue exploring. The afternoon light is beautiful right now, casting long shadows across the piazzas and making the city glow golden. Milan is proving to be a perfect contrast to the alpine serenity of Zermatt - equally beautiful but in an entirely different way.
More later, perhaps after my encounter with da Vinci's masterpiece.