Morning musings from Siena's shell-shaped square
I woke up early today, despite having no concrete plans. It seems my body has its own internal alarm clock these days. The gentle glow of dawn was just beginning to illuminate my hotel room when I opened my eyes at 6:30. After a quick shower, I decided to venture out into Siena's medieval streets while the city was still waking up.
It's day 81 of my journey, and I'm starting to notice subtle changes in how I approach each new place. Rather than rushing to see everything, I find myself drawn to quieter moments of observation. This morning exemplified that perfectly.
I arrived at Piazza del Campo at 7:15, and had the famous shell-shaped square almost entirely to myself. Just a few locals crossing on their way to work, a street sweeper methodically cleaning the brick pavement, and me - sitting on the cool stones with my back against the sloping square, watching the morning light gradually illuminate the Torre del Mangia and Palazzo Pubblico.
There's something magical about experiencing iconic places before the crowds arrive. I sat there for nearly 30 minutes, just observing how the square slowly came to life. A café worker setting up tables. A delivery person wheeling boxes of produce to a restaurant. Two elderly men engaged in animated conversation, gesturing with the particular expressiveness that seems uniquely Italian.
I checked the weather forecast on my phone - looks like we'll have a decent morning with clouds increasing throughout the day. There's a yellow warning for thunderstorms later this evening, so I should plan my activities accordingly.
!Morning light on Piazza del Campo Early morning light on Piazza del Campo, before the crowds arrive
At 8:00, I found a small café that had just opened and ordered my morning espresso. The barista seemed amused by my request for a "caffè doppio" (double espresso), perhaps noticing my slight caffeine dependency. The coffee was excellent - intense and perfectly balanced. I paired it with a small pastry filled with ricotta and honey that the barista recommended.
As I sip my coffee, I'm planning today's exploration. The Duomo (Cathedral) is high on my list, as I didn't get there yesterday. I also want to check out the Santa Maria della Scala Museum Complex, where I noticed there's a performance festival called "Xenos" happening today. The weather forecast suggests I should prioritize outdoor activities this morning before potential rain arrives.
What strikes me about Siena so far is how it feels both smaller and more intimate than Florence, yet no less rich in history and culture. Yesterday's wanderings through the Onda contrada with its blue and white dolphin flags gave me a glimpse into the city's unique district system and the passionate Palio traditions.
I'm also tempted by the guided tours I saw advertised - particularly one about Saint Catherine of Siena at 11:00 and another about Siena's personalities at 3:00. Given the weather warnings, the morning tour might be the safer bet.
It's now 8:10, and the city is coming more fully alive. I can hear church bells ringing in the distance, and the square is gradually filling with more people. Time to finish my coffee and continue exploring this medieval gem before the potential afternoon storms arrive.
Current stats:
- Journey day: 81
- Days remaining: 419
- Steps taken this morning: 4,216 (and counting)
- Coffees consumed: 1 (but the day is young)
Off to the Duomo now - I'll report back on what I discover!