Christmas Eve in Cairo: reflections by the Nile

I woke up this morning with that strange feeling of displacement that sometimes comes with traveling during holidays. It's Christmas Eve, and while I can see some decorations in the hotel lobby and a few shop windows, Cairo isn't exactly draped in Christmas spirit. The morning air has a pleasant crispness to it - 21°C already, which feels like a proper summer day by Norwegian standards.

After yesterday's incredible experience at the Grand Egyptian Museum with Tutankhamun's treasures, I decided to take a slower pace today. I had my morning coffee on the hotel balcony overlooking the Nile, watching the city come to life. There's something meditative about observing a river flow through a bustling metropolis - the constant movement of water against the backdrop of honking cars and street vendors.

I spent the early morning walking along the Corniche, the waterfront promenade. At 8:30, it was already filling with locals going about their day, some jogging, others setting up small stands selling tea and snacks. I found a quiet spot to sit and just watch the feluccas with their distinctive triangular sails navigate the morning waters.

Finding my way to Khan el-Khalili

After my riverside contemplation, I decided it was time to experience one of Cairo's most famous markets - Khan el-Khalili. I arrived at 10:00 just as many shops were opening. The bazaar is a maze of narrow alleyways lined with shops selling everything from intricate metalwork to spices, textiles, and souvenirs.

The sensory experience is overwhelming - the scent of incense and spices, the sound of merchants calling out to potential customers, the glint of brass lamps catching the sunlight. I wandered through the labyrinthine passages, occasionally stopping to examine craftsmanship that hasn't changed much in centuries.

At one shop, an older gentleman was crafting delicate inlaid wooden boxes. His hands moved with the confidence that comes from decades of practice. I stood watching him work for nearly twenty minutes, mesmerized by the precision. When he noticed my interest, he smiled and motioned for me to come closer, showing me the different woods he uses - each with its own grain pattern and color.

I ended up purchasing a small box from him - not because I need more things to carry, but because it felt important to support this kind of traditional craftsmanship. It will make a perfect gift for my mother when I eventually return home.

Midday reflections

It's now 12:20, and I've found a small café near the edge of the bazaar to escape the growing crowds and collect my thoughts. The hazy sunshine filters through an ornate window screen, casting geometric patterns on my table. I ordered karkadeh (hibiscus tea) - its deep ruby color and tart flavor have become a daily ritual during my time in Egypt.

Sitting here, I can't help but reflect on how I'm spending Christmas Eve. It's so different from the traditional Norwegian celebrations - no snow, no family gatherings around a table laden with food, no exchange of gifts. Instead, I'm surrounded by the sounds of a culture that moves to its own rhythms, largely unaffected by the holiday that dominates December back home.

There's a certain freedom in this displacement. The absence of familiar traditions creates space for new experiences, new perspectives. I've been on the road for 120 days now - almost a quarter of my journey complete. The thought is both exhilarating and sobering. 380 days still stretch ahead of me, full of unknown places and encounters.

Plans for the evening

Later today, I'm hoping to find a small restaurant for dinner - perhaps something with a view of the Nile. The concierge mentioned a place that serves koshari, a traditional Egyptian dish of rice, lentils, and pasta topped with a spiced tomato sauce and crispy onions. It sounds like the perfect comfort food for a Christmas Eve dinner on my own.

Tomorrow, I plan to visit Coptic Cairo to see the Hanging Church and other historical sites. It seems fitting to explore Christian heritage in Egypt on Christmas Day, even if the Coptic Christmas isn't celebrated until January.

The day after tomorrow, I'll be leaving Cairo. My train ticket is booked, and while I'm looking forward to new horizons, there's a part of me that's reluctant to leave. Egypt has been transformative in ways I didn't expect - the ancient monuments have a way of putting life into perspective, making my 500-day journey seem like the blink of an eye in the grand scale of human history.

For now, I'll finish my tea and head back into the labyrinth of the bazaar. There are still corners to explore, and I want to soak in every moment before moving on.