First night in Petra: arriving under the desert stars
It's approaching midnight as I sit on the edge of my hotel bed, the window cracked open to let in the cool desert air. The journey from Cairo to Petra today was smoother than I expected, though not without its moments of confusion and wonder.
I arrived at Queen Alia International Airport in Amman this afternoon after a relatively short flight from Cairo. The contrast between Egypt's bustling capital and Jordan's more measured pace was immediately apparent. Even the airport felt calmer, more orderly. I had arranged transportation to Petra in advance - a wise decision as it turns out, since the journey by road takes around three hours.
The drive south through Jordan was fascinating. As we left the urban sprawl of Amman behind, the landscape transformed into a stark, beautiful desert panorama. My driver, Mahmoud, pointed out various landmarks along the way, including the occasional Bedouin encampment visible from the highway. The road cut through valleys and along ridges, offering glimpses of a landscape that seemed almost otherworldly in the late afternoon light.
"First time in Jordan?" Mahmoud asked about an hour into our journey.
"Yes," I replied. "I've been looking forward to seeing Petra for a long time."
He nodded approvingly. "You will not be disappointed. But there is much more to see in Jordan than just Petra."
He proceeded to give me recommendations for other sites worth visiting - Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, Jerash - all while navigating the winding road with practiced ease. I made mental notes, wondering if my schedule would allow for these detours.
We arrived in Wadi Musa, the town that serves as the gateway to Petra, just as darkness was falling. The temperature had dropped considerably from the daytime, and I was glad I'd packed my warmer jacket near the top of my backpack. My hotel is modest but comfortable, with a view that I'm told will reveal the mountains surrounding Petra when daylight returns.
After checking in, I ventured out briefly to find dinner. The town was quiet, with most tourists already retired for the evening in preparation for early morning visits to the archaeological site. I found a small restaurant still open and enjoyed a simple meal of mansaf - a traditional Jordanian dish of lamb cooked in fermented dried yogurt and served with rice. The owner seemed pleased that I knew what to order without looking at the menu, though I confessed I'd researched Jordanian cuisine before arriving.
"Tomorrow you see Petra?" he asked as I paid my bill.
"Yes, first thing in the morning," I replied.
He nodded sagely. "Good. Go early. The light is best, and fewer people."
Returning to my hotel, I organized my daypack for tomorrow's exploration. Camera, extra battery, water bottle, hat, sunscreen - despite the current chill in the air, I know the December sun can still be intense during the day. I've set my alarm for 6:00 AM, aiming to be at the entrance when it opens at 7:00.
As I sit here now, the reality of where I am is finally sinking in. After 122 days of travel, I've reached one of the places I've dreamed about visiting for years. Through my open window, I can see stars scattered across the night sky with a clarity that's impossible in more populated areas. The air smells of dust and something herbal - perhaps wild thyme from the surrounding hills.
Tomorrow I'll walk through the Siq, that narrow gorge that leads to the Treasury, Petra's most famous facade. I'll stand before structures carved from rose-colored stone over 2,000 years ago. I'll walk where ancient Nabataeans once walked, along pathways worn smooth by centuries of footsteps.
For now, though, I'll sleep, letting the quiet of this desert night envelop me. There's a certain peace in knowing that Petra has stood for millennia, and will still be there waiting when the sun rises.
Day 122 of 500. The journey continues, and tomorrow brings new wonders.