First impressions of Amman: modern life meets ancient history
I arrived in Amman late yesterday evening after a somewhat bumpy bus ride from Petra. The journey took longer than expected due to a short stop in Madaba, but it gave me a chance to see more of the Jordanian landscape. By the time we pulled into Amman, it was already dark, and all I managed was to check into my hotel, grab a quick shawarma from a nearby shop, and collapse into bed.
This morning I woke up feeling refreshed and ready to explore Jordan's capital. My hotel is located in Jabal Amman, one of the city's older districts built on one of the many hills that make up the city. From my window, I can see whitewashed buildings stretching across multiple hillsides - quite different from the ancient rose-colored stone of Petra.
After a quick breakfast at the hotel (the hummus was excellent, though the coffee was... let's just say I've had better), I set out to explore. I arrived at the Citadel right as it opened at 8:00. Standing at the highest point in the city, it offers panoramic views of Amman spreading out in all directions. The morning light cast long shadows across the ancient ruins, which date back to the Bronze Age.
What strikes me most about Amman is the juxtaposition of ancient and modern. From the Citadel, I could see the impressive ruins of the Temple of Hercules standing tall against the backdrop of a thoroughly modern city. The columns remaining from this Roman temple are massive, and I spent some time trying to imagine what it must have looked like in its full glory nearly 2,000 years ago.
The Umayyad Palace complex within the Citadel was particularly impressive - the dome of the audience hall has been partially reconstructed, giving visitors a better sense of its original grandeur. I noticed several interesting trees growing among the ruins, including what I believe were cypress and olive trees, somehow finding life among the ancient stones.
By 10:00, I had made my way down to the Roman Theater, which sits at the foot of the Citadel hill. Built during the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius in the 2nd century CE, it's remarkably well-preserved and could once seat 6,000 spectators. I climbed to the top tier (quite the workout for the legs after yesterday's Petra explorations) and sat for a while, taking in the acoustics and imagining performances from centuries past.
It's now just after noon, and I'm taking a break at a small café near the theater. The weather is partly cloudy and about 11°C - cool but pleasant for walking. I've noticed that Amman feels much more like a functioning modern city compared to the tourist-oriented atmosphere of Petra. People are going about their daily business, and I feel like I'm getting a glimpse of everyday Jordanian life.
For the rest of the day, I plan to explore Rainbow Street, which I've heard is filled with interesting shops, cafes, and some of the city's best street food. I'm particularly eager to try knafeh, a sweet cheese pastry soaked in syrup that several people have recommended.
I've just seen a news headline about Jazeera Airways signing an agreement with Amman City Airport. It's interesting to see how Jordan is developing its transportation infrastructure - something that would have been crucial even in ancient times when this city was known as Philadelphia and was part of the Decapolis.
Tomorrow, I'm thinking of visiting the Jordan Museum to learn more about the country's history beyond what I've seen at the archaeological sites. I'm also hoping to connect with some local tech professionals if possible - I'd be curious to learn about Jordan's growing IT sector and how technology is integrated into daily life here.
As I sit here sipping mint tea and watching the city buzz around me, I'm struck by how this journey continues to provide new perspectives. After the ancient tranquility of Petra, Amman's urban energy is both a contrast and a complement - another facet of this fascinating country.
126 days down, 374 to go. The journey continues.