Ancient connections and modern reflections at Ephesus
Sitting on a sun-warmed stone bench near the ancient public latrines of Ephesus, I'm taking a moment to rest and gather my thoughts. The morning's light rain has given way to patches of sunshine, and I've spent the past few hours exploring parts of the site I didn't get to yesterday.
I arrived at the gates at 8:50 this morning (of course the site opened at 9:00), determined to see the areas I missed yesterday. The Terrace Houses were particularly fascinating - these ancient Roman apartments for the wealthy elite have been partially restored and covered with protective roofing. Walking through the rooms with their intricate mosaics and frescoes felt like stepping directly into the past. Some of the wall paintings still retain their vibrant reds and blues, preserved for two millennia.
What struck me most was how familiar these homes felt despite their age. The wealthy Romans had heated floors, running water, and decorative elements that wouldn't look entirely out of place in a modern luxury home. Standing in what was once someone's dining room, I couldn't help but wonder what they would think of our homes today. Would they be amazed by our technology or recognize the same human desire for comfort and beauty?
!Ancient mosaic floor in the Terrace Houses Intricate mosaic floor pattern in one of the Terrace Houses
After exploring the Terrace Houses, I made my way to the Temple of Artemis site. I'd read it was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, so my expectations were high. The reality was... humbling. Just a single column remains standing in a marshy field, with scattered stone fragments surrounding it. It's hard to imagine that this was once a magnificent temple that dwarfed the Parthenon.
A small group of German tourists was there when I arrived, and their guide explained how the temple was destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries before finally being dismantled for building materials. Standing there looking at that lonely column, I felt a strange mix of sadness and wonder. So much of what humans build eventually returns to the earth.
I walked back to the main Ephesus site and found a quieter section away from the tour groups to sit and have my packed lunch. The temperature has warmed up to about 11Β°C - still cool but pleasant in the sunshine. As I ate, I watched workers carefully excavating a section of what looked like an ancient street. One of them noticed my interest and explained they're constantly finding new artifacts and structures. "Ephesus is like an iceberg," he said. "What you see is only a fraction of what lies beneath."
!Lone column of the Temple of Artemis The single remaining column of the once-magnificent Temple of Artemis
I've been thinking about time a lot today. Here I am, 179 days into my journey, sitting among ruins that have stood for thousands of years. My entire 500-day adventure is just a blink compared to the history surrounding me. And yet, these brief moments of connection across millennia feel significant somehow.
I overheard some visitors talking about the reorganization plans for Ephesus - apparently, they're going to move the main entrance and remove some commercial areas to preserve the archaeological integrity. It sparked a debate among the tourists about balancing preservation with accessibility. I wonder what this place will look like in another 2,000 years.
The weather forecast shows it should clear up this afternoon, which is perfect for my plans to visit Εirince village. It's a small hillside settlement about 8km from here, known for its traditional Greek-style houses and fruit wines. After two days of ancient stones and ruins, I'm looking forward to experiencing something living and vibrant.
As I finish writing this, sitting on my stone bench that has supported countless visitors before me, I'm reminded of something the archaeologist I met yesterday said: "The people who built this city weren't thinking about creating monuments for tourists. They were just living their lives." I wonder what traces of our ordinary lives will fascinate people two millennia from now.
321 days left on this journey. I hope I'm building something that lasts, even if it's just within myself.
!View down the marble-paved street toward the Library of Celsus The ancient marble-paved street leading toward the Library of Celsus