Earthquake whispers and ancient echoes
I woke up this morning with that peculiar feeling of being in a new place but not quite remembering where I was for a split second. The soft morning light filtering through the curtains of my boutique hotel room in Kaleiçi quickly reminded me – I'm in Antalya, day 192 of this journey.
It's barely past 11 am, and I've already had quite a morning. At breakfast, I overheard some guests talking about a small earthquake that apparently happened early this morning. A 4.6 magnitude tremor somewhere off the coast, they said. I hadn't felt a thing in my deep sleep, but the news sparked that familiar mix of curiosity and slight unease. The hotel owner assured everyone it was quite common and nothing to worry about – small tremors happen fairly regularly in this region.
"No damage, no tsunami warnings," he said with a casual wave of his hand. "Just the earth stretching a little."
The earth stretching. I like that image.
Morning wanderings
After my mandatory morning coffee (which was surprisingly good – rich and not overly bitter), I set out for a morning walk through more of Kaleiçi. I've quickly fallen for these narrow, winding streets with their Ottoman-era buildings. There's something deeply satisfying about getting deliberately lost in a historic district, turning corners at random and discovering hidden courtyards, small cafés, and shops selling everything from Turkish delight to handmade leather goods.
I arrived at Hadrian's Gate just as the morning sun hit it perfectly. Built in 130 CE to commemorate Emperor Hadrian's visit, it stands as an impressive reminder of just how layered the history is here. I stood there for a good ten minutes, watching the play of light on the ancient marble, trying to imagine the countless people who have passed through this triple-arched gateway over nearly two millennia.
![Hadrian's Gate in morning light]()
It's strange to think that when this gate was built, the concept of Norway didn't even exist. My homeland was still centuries away from becoming a unified kingdom. Standing before structures like this provides such perspective on the brief span of our individual lives – even my ambitious 500-day journey is just the blink of an eye against the backdrop of this ancient city.
Weather shifts
The morning started sunny and pleasant, but I've noticed clouds beginning to gather. The temperature is hovering around 10°C – not exactly Mediterranean beach weather, but perfectly comfortable for exploring. The forecast suggests it might get cloudy later, which honestly might be ideal for my planned visit to the ruins of Termessos this afternoon.
I've been checking the local bus schedules, and there's one leaving for Termessos at 12:30. That gives me just enough time to grab a quick lunch before heading out. I'm drawn to these ancient ruins partly because they're set high in the mountains, offering what I'm told are spectacular views, and partly because they're less visited than some of the coastal attractions. After two days of city exploration, I'm feeling that familiar pull toward nature and solitude.
Reflections at day 192
It struck me this morning that I'm now 192 days into this journey. Almost 200 days. The halfway point is approaching faster than I expected. I find myself taking more moments to pause and reflect on what this experience is teaching me.
In Cappadocia, surrounded by landscapes shaped over millions of years, I contemplated the vast scale of geological time. Here in Antalya, amid ruins and structures that have witnessed the rise and fall of empires, I'm thinking about human history and our collective story.
What will remain of our current civilization in two thousand years? What structures of ours might future travelers stand before, trying to imagine our daily lives?
The earthquake news this morning reinforced this train of thought. We build our lives on ground that occasionally trembles, construct our certainties on foundations that can shift without warning. Yet we continue to create, to build, to move forward.
308 days remain in this journey. I wonder what foundations within myself will have shifted by the time I return to Kristiansand.
Today's plans
After my planned visit to Termessos this afternoon, I'm hoping to return to Antalya in time for sunset. There's a spot along the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean that the hotel owner recommended – apparently the view of the sun setting behind the mountains while illuminating the sea is something special.
Tomorrow, I'm thinking about taking a dolmuş to the Düden Waterfalls. There are actually two sets of falls – the upper falls and the lower falls that cascade directly into the Mediterranean. The contrast between the thundering fresh water and the vast salt sea creates a beautiful natural boundary, a meeting of opposites.
For now though, I'll finish my tea, gather my day pack, and head out for lunch before catching that bus to Termessos. The ancient city awaits, and I don't want to miss that 12:30 bus.
192 days down, 308 to go. The journey continues.