


Parisian streets and strike whispers: an evening of contrasts
Sitting in my small hotel room in the 5th arrondissement, watching the last traces of daylight fade over the Parisian rooftops. The day has been a wonderful mix of planned exploration and serendipitous discoveries.
This morning started with Luxembourg Gardens, which I'd been eager to visit since arriving yesterday. I arrived just as they opened (okay, maybe five minutes before) and spent nearly two hours wandering the perfectly manicured pathways. The garden's trees are magnificent - stately chestnuts, plane trees with their mottled bark, and meticulously pruned lindens. I found a quiet bench beneath a particularly grand specimen and just sat, watching Parisians start their day - joggers circling the gardens, elderly men setting up chess games, students reading on benches.
After a pain au chocolat and espresso at a corner café, I made my way toward Notre-Dame. The restoration work continues, but even behind scaffolding, the cathedral maintains its imposing presence. A guide explained they hope to complete the work by 2026, which seems remarkably fast considering the extent of the damage. I stood across the Seine for a while, thinking about how many people across centuries have gazed at those same towers.
The afternoon was spent wandering the car-free streets, which felt like a gift. Without the usual traffic, Paris revealed itself differently - conversations spilled from cafés, street musicians found new corners, children played in spaces normally dominated by vehicles. I ended up on a spontaneous walking tour with a group of German tourists whose guide was happy to let me join. His stories about Parisian architecture and the city's evolution made me see details I would have missed otherwise.
As evening approached, I found myself in a small bistro near my hotel, where the waiter noticed me struggling with the French menu and took pity on me. Over a delicious coq au vin, he mentioned the upcoming strikes planned for Thursday. "All of Paris will stop," he said with a shrug that somehow conveyed both resignation and pride. "The metros, the buses, maybe even restaurants. You should plan accordingly."
I'm grateful for the warning. Having experienced the smooth efficiency of Paris today, it's hard to imagine the city grinding to a halt. But there's something admirable about the French tradition of public demonstration. I'll need to adjust my plans - perhaps Thursday will be a day for exploring my immediate neighborhood on foot.
The weather has been kind today - cooler than I expected for September, but perfect for walking. According to my phone, the coming days will be increasingly cloudy, with possible showers midweek. I should probably prioritize outdoor activities tomorrow.
My plan for the Louvre tomorrow feels both exciting and daunting. The museum is closed on Tuesdays, so Monday will likely be busy, but I've read that arriving early (which won't be a problem) helps avoid the worst crowds. I've downloaded the museum map and marked a few key works I don't want to miss, but I'm also prepared to simply wander and discover.
It's strange to think I've been traveling for nearly a month now. The initial disorientation has faded, replaced by a growing confidence in navigating new places, new systems, new languages. Each city teaches me something different - Amsterdam taught me to slow down, Bruges showed me the value of quiet moments, and Paris... Paris seems to be teaching me about contrasts. The historic and modern, the chaotic and orderly, the planned and spontaneous.
474 days still stretch ahead of me. Sometimes that number feels impossibly vast, other times alarmingly finite. But tonight, watching the lights of Paris begin to twinkle on, I'm simply grateful to be here, now.
Tomorrow: the Louvre, and whatever else Paris decides to show me.