Morning mist on Lake Como
It's 7:20 am, and I'm sitting on the tiny balcony of my hastily-booked guesthouse, watching wisps of fog dance across the surface of Lake Como. The air is crisp – just 5°C according to my phone – and I've wrapped myself in both the room's blanket and my jacket, clutching my coffee mug for additional warmth.
I woke up at 6:15, a full 45 minutes before my alarm. Something about sleeping in new places always does this to me, especially when there's a view worth seeing. The sun hasn't fully risen over the mountains yet, but there's enough light to appreciate Varenna's beauty.
This wasn't planned. None of it. Yesterday's spontaneous decision to leave Milan for Lake Como has given me this moment of perfect tranquility. The village is still asleep, with only occasional sounds of shutters opening or a distant boat motor disturbing the silence.
My coffee is nearly gone, and I'm debating whether to make another cup or venture out to find a café that might be open this early. The forecast shows the temperature climbing to a more comfortable 14°C by afternoon, with some clouds moving in later. I've noticed a yellow fog warning for the region, but it seems that's more for the plains around Milan than here by the lake.
Finding accommodation in low season
Finding a place to stay yesterday was surprisingly easy. November is decidedly off-season in Varenna, and I had my pick of several guesthouses and small hotels. I chose this one – Albergo del Lago – for its lake view and reasonable price. The elderly owner seemed genuinely pleased to have a guest arrive on a Wednesday afternoon in November.
"Most people, they come in summer," she explained while showing me to my room. "But November, it has its own beauty. More quiet. More real."
She wasn't wrong. After weeks of navigating tourist crowds in major European cities, the tranquility here is refreshing. My room is simple but comfortable – a twin bed, small desk, that precious balcony, and a bathroom that requires careful navigation to avoid bumping my head on the sloped ceiling.
Plans for the day
The SloWeekend event I overheard people discussing yesterday starts today. According to the pamphlet the hotel owner gave me, it's a celebration of local food traditions around Lake Como, with various activities in different villages. In Varenna, there's a morning market starting at 9:00 am featuring local producers, followed by a guided walk to a nearby olive grove at 11:00 am.
I plan to be at the market when it opens, then join the olive grove tour. The afternoon is open – perhaps I'll take the ferry to Bellagio or Menaggio to see what SloWeekend activities are happening there.
I'm already wondering if I should extend my stay beyond the one night I've booked. There's something about this place that feels right for slowing down. After 72 days of constant movement, perhaps Lake Como is offering exactly what I need – a chance to pause, to breathe, to simply be present.
The church bell just rang 7:30. I think I'll get dressed and explore the village before breakfast. The narrow streets I glimpsed yesterday deserve proper attention, and I suspect they'll be even more magical in the early morning light, before other visitors emerge.
Day 72 of 500. The journey continues, but perhaps at a gentler pace for now.