A bittersweet farewell to Varenna
I'm sitting at a small café overlooking Lake Como, nursing my second espresso of the day. It's just past 1pm, and in less than two hours I'll be boarding a train to Florence. My bag is packed and waiting at the hotel, and I've settled my bill with a smile and a handshake from the proprietor who has hosted me these past six days.
This morning I woke early, determined to make the most of my final hours in this place that has unexpectedly captured a piece of my heart. The sun was just beginning to burn through the morning mist as I made one last pilgrimage to the hilltop chapel. I arrived at 7:40am, giving myself ten minutes to catch my breath before the caretaker unlocked the doors at 8:00. He nodded in recognition as I approached - I've become a familiar face during my stay.
"Ultimo giorno?" he asked, and I nodded.
"Sì, purtroppo." Yes, unfortunately.
The view was particularly clear today, with the mountains across the lake standing in sharp relief against the blue November sky. I sat in silence for twenty minutes, trying to commit it all to memory - the way the light played across the water, the distant church bells marking the quarter-hour, the scent of damp stone and candle wax.
!Morning view from the hilltop chapel Morning light over Lake Como from the chapel viewpoint
On my way back down to the village, I stopped at Maria's café, where my espresso was waiting before I'd even reached the counter. She smiled knowingly - we'd said our proper goodbyes yesterday, but she seemed pleased to see me one last time.
"Buon viaggio," she said, pushing away my coins. "This one is a gift."
I've spent the rest of the morning walking the lakefront path one final time, stopping at the rocky outcrop I discovered on my second day here. A pair of mallards paddled by, unconcerned with my presence. The water was particularly still today, creating perfect reflections of the surrounding mountains.
Sitting here now, I can't help but reflect on how this place has shifted something fundamental in my approach to this journey. When I left Kristiansand 78 days ago, I had a mental checklist of places to see and things to do. But Varenna has taught me to slow down, to sit still long enough for a place to reveal itself to me. I've learned more about this village by simply being present than I would have by rushing through with a guidebook.
The weather forecast shows a yellow fog warning for tonight and tomorrow - I'll miss seeing the lake disappear under a blanket of mist, but perhaps Florence has its own mysteries to reveal. According to my phone, it will be slightly warmer there - around 16°C compared to today's 12°C here.
!Farewell espresso at lakeside café Last espresso with a view
I have 422 days left on this journey. That sounds like an eternity, but I know it will pass quickly. I wonder how many more places will leave their mark on me the way Varenna has.
As I prepare to leave, I find myself counting - not days or distances, but moments. Six sunrise walks along the shore. Four visits to the hilltop chapel. Eleven espressos at Maria's café. Countless reflections in the still waters of Lake Como.
It's nearly time to collect my bag and make my way to the station. The 14:35 train won't wait, even for a passenger who arrives ten minutes early. Florence awaits, with its Renaissance splendor and bustling energy - quite a contrast to the tranquility I've found here.
Varenna, thank you for showing me how to travel differently. I came as a tourist but leave feeling like I've truly experienced a place. That's a lesson worth 78 days of travel right there.
Distance traveled: still counting. Lessons learned: just beginning to understand.
!Packed bag ready for departure Ready for the next chapter