A perfect December morning in Naples

I woke up early today, as usual. There's something about being in a new city that makes my body clock extra vigilant, refusing to let me sleep past 7:00 am even when I have nowhere specific to be. The narrow street outside my hotel window was already buzzing with activity – delivery scooters zipping by, shopkeepers setting up, and the distant sound of animated Italian conversations.

After a quick shower in my tiny but functional bathroom (where I had to duck to avoid hitting the showerhead), I headed down to the hotel's breakfast room. The coffee here is robust and flavorful – a proper espresso that kicks you awake rather than the gentle nudge most hotel coffees provide.

I decided to make the most of this beautiful December day. The weather forecast promised sunshine and a pleasant 16°C – practically summer compared to what Kristiansand would be experiencing right now.

By 9:00, I was strolling along the Lungomare, Naples' seafront promenade. The Bay of Naples stretched out before me, with Vesuvius looming in the distance, its distinctive silhouette unmistakable against the clear blue sky. Couples walked hand in hand, joggers pounded the pavement, and elderly men sat on benches, gesturing animatedly as they discussed what I imagine were matters of great importance.

!Naples waterfront with Vesuvius in the background Morning light on the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius watching over everything

I found a spot to sit and just absorb the scene for a while. This is day 102 of my journey, and I've learned that sometimes the most rewarding travel experiences come from simply sitting still and observing. The Mediterranean sparkled in the sunlight, fishing boats bobbed gently in the harbor, and seagulls swooped overhead. I counted seven cruise ships on the horizon – evidence of Naples' growing popularity as a destination.

After about an hour of waterfront wandering, I made my way to the Archaeological Museum, arriving at 10:50 for its 11:00 opening. The museum houses an incredible collection of artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum, and I was eager to see them before my planned visit to Pompeii itself in the coming days.

The museum was fascinating – room after room of mosaics, frescoes, and everyday items preserved by the volcanic eruption nearly 2,000 years ago. I was particularly struck by the detailed mosaics that once decorated wealthy Romans' homes. The famous "Alexander Mosaic" depicting Alexander the Great in battle was even more impressive in person than in photos.

What really captured my attention, though, was the Secret Cabinet section, which houses the museum's collection of ancient erotic art. It's remarkable how our societal attitudes toward sexuality have cycled through periods of openness and repression over the centuries.

By the time I emerged from the museum, it was just past noon. My stomach was growling, reminding me that a museum breakfast of coffee and a pastry can only sustain you so long when you're walking several kilometers a day.

Now I'm sitting at a small café near Piazza Garibaldi, typing this up while waiting for my panini. I noticed a poster about the Olympic torch relay starting in Rome today – it's heading to the 2026 Winter Games in Milan and Cortina d'Ampezzo. The poster mentioned the torch will actually pass through Naples during the Christmas period. Perhaps I'll still be here to see it?

The square is bustling with activity. Apparently, there's a "Bella Piazza" project running until January with workshops, music, and theater. It seems I've arrived during a festive time – the city is already decorated for Christmas, with lights strung across streets and nativity scenes (presepi) in many shop windows.

This afternoon, I'm planning to explore more of the historic center and perhaps find a good spot to people-watch with a coffee. Tomorrow might be a good day for Pompeii, if the weather holds.

I've been in Naples for just over 24 hours, but I'm already smitten with its raw energy and unfiltered character. Rome was magnificent in its imperial splendor, but Naples feels more... human. More alive. More real.

And for someone who's spent 102 days traveling, seeking something authentic and transformative, that feels exactly right.

!Street scene in Naples with Christmas decorations The beginning of Christmas decorations transforming the already colorful streets

398 days to go. I wonder how many more cities will capture my heart before this journey ends?