A day of temples and spontaneous decisions
It's barely past 9 pm, and I'm sitting on the balcony of my hotel room in Luxor, watching the city lights shimmer along the Nile. The temperature has dropped to about 16°C, but it's still comfortable enough to sit outside with just a light sweater. This morning, I was in Cairo. Now I'm 675 kilometers south, surrounded by some of the most significant ancient monuments in the world.
I hadn't planned to leave Cairo so quickly. My museum visit yesterday was fascinating, and I'd been looking forward to seeing the pyramids. But as I sat having breakfast this morning, I kept thinking about all the other incredible sites in Egypt beyond Cairo. The restlessness hit me - that familiar feeling that I needed to move. I pulled out my phone and started researching options.
Within an hour, I'd booked a domestic flight to Luxor departing at 11:30. I packed quickly, checked out of my hotel (thankfully they didn't charge me for the full day), and caught a taxi to the airport. The flight was only about an hour and fifteen minutes, and by early afternoon, I was checking into a modest hotel with a view of the Nile.
First glimpse of ancient Luxor
After settling in, I didn't waste any time. I walked to Luxor Temple, which is conveniently located in the center of the city. I arrived at 4:40 pm, twenty minutes before closing time. The ticket seller seemed doubtful I'd have enough time to see anything, but I convinced him to sell me a ticket anyway.
The temple was breathtaking even in my rushed visit. Massive stone columns and statues of Ramses II standing guard at the entrance. I practically jogged through parts of it, knowing I'd return for a proper visit tomorrow. The late afternoon sun cast long shadows across the ancient stones, creating dramatic lighting that made the hieroglyphics seem to come alive.
As I was leaving, a guard mentioned that the temple reopens at night with special lighting. I made a mental note to return after dinner.
Evening illuminations
After a simple meal of koshari (a delicious mix of rice, lentils, pasta, and tomato sauce) at a local restaurant, I walked back to the temple around 7:30 pm. The night lighting completely transformed the experience. The massive columns were bathed in golden light, and the entire complex had a magical quality that was missing during daylight.
I noticed a small gathering near the temple entrance - apparently part of something called "Pop-Up USA" organized by the American Embassy. There were some cultural performances happening, with the illuminated temple as a dramatic backdrop. I watched for a while, enjoying the unexpected cultural exchange in this ancient setting.
Walking along the Nile afterward, I spotted several feluccas (traditional wooden sailing boats) docked along the shore. I approached one of the operators and arranged for a sunrise sail tomorrow morning. He seemed amused by my insistence on confirming the exact meeting time three times. 5:30 am, at the dock nearest my hotel.
Plans taking shape
Tomorrow will be an early start with the felucca ride, followed by a proper visit to Luxor Temple. In the afternoon, I'm planning to visit Karnak Temple, which is apparently even more impressive. I've also arranged for a driver to take me to the Valley of the Kings the day after tomorrow.
I'm already glad I made the spontaneous decision to come here. Cairo was fascinating, but there's something special about Luxor. The city feels more manageable, more connected to its ancient past. The winter air is crisp and clear, perfect for exploring ruins without the infamous Egyptian summer heat.
As I sit here on my balcony, I can see the silhouettes of palm trees swaying gently along the riverbank. In the distance, the lights of the West Bank twinkle, marking where the Valley of the Kings and Queens wait to be explored. I have a feeling the next few days are going to be quite remarkable.
It's getting cooler now as the temperature continues to drop. The forecast shows it will reach about 12°C overnight - chilly by Egyptian standards but nothing compared to December in Kristiansand. Time to head inside, set my alarm for 5:00 am, and get some sleep. Day 105 of 500 is coming to a close, and I'm exactly where I need to be right now.