Morning reflection before Valley of the Kings
It's just after 8:00 am, and I'm sitting on the small balcony of my hotel room in Luxor, watching the city come alive. The morning air is surprisingly crisp β about 14Β°C according to my phone β though the forecast promises it will warm up to the low twenties by afternoon. Perfect weather for exploring ancient tombs.
I've been up since 5:30, partly due to excitement about today's adventure to the Valley of the Kings, and partly because my body is still adjusting to the rhythm of Egypt. After yesterday's marathon exploration of Karnak Temple, I expected to sleep like a stone, but my mind kept replaying images of those massive columns in the Great Hypostyle Hall. I can still feel the sense of smallness I experienced standing among them.
Breakfast was simple β strong Egyptian coffee (which continues to surprise me with its intensity) and a flatbread with some local cheese from the hotel's modest buffet. I sat alone, planning my approach to the Valley of the Kings. The hotel staff recommended getting there early to avoid both the heat and the crowds, so I've arranged for a driver to pick me up at 8:30.
I've spent the last half hour checking my camera gear and making sure I have enough water. The dry air here makes hydration essential, something I've been reminded of repeatedly since arriving in Egypt. My guidebook says the Valley of the Kings can be particularly hot and dusty, even in December.
Yesterday's experience at Karnak has left me in a contemplative state. Those temples were built to last eternity, and in many ways, they have. What will remain of our civilization in 3,500 years? Will anyone walk through the ruins of our cities with the same sense of wonder?
The Nile flows steadily in the distance, visible between buildings from my balcony perch. After my felucca ride with Mahmoud two days ago, I see the river differently β not just as a geographic feature but as the lifeblood that made all of this possible. "The Nile is Egypt, and Egypt is the Nile," Mahmoud told me as we watched the sunrise paint the water gold.
I still have three days left in Luxor before my scheduled departure on Sunday. After today's visit to the Valley of the Kings, I'm hoping to explore the Valley of the Queens tomorrow. Then perhaps I'll spend my last full day here seeking out some of the less-visited temples on the East Bank, or maybe tracking down some of those date palms and sycamore figs I spotted along the Nile during my felucca ride. There's something about the resilience of trees in this desert environment that fascinates me.
My driver should be arriving soon. I've packed extra batteries, my hat, sunscreen, and more water than seems reasonable β but better safe than sorry. The tombs of pharaohs await, and I'm eager to descend into their underground world. After the grandeur of Karnak Temple, I'm curious to experience the intimate, hidden spaces where Egypt's rulers prepared for their journey to the afterlife.
Time to head downstairs. The Valley of the Kings has been on my bucket list for decades, and in twenty minutes, I'll be on my way there. Some dreams take a long time to realize, but that only makes them sweeter when they finally come true.