Three days until fifty: a morning walk through Bethlehem

I woke up early this morning, as the first light was just beginning to filter through the curtains of my modest hotel room. It's my second day in Bethlehem, and I'm still processing everything I've seen since crossing over from Jerusalem yesterday.

After a quick breakfast at the hotel - strong Arabic coffee and fresh pita with za'atar and olive oil - I decided to take a morning walk to explore more of the city before the tourist buses arrive. The streets were quiet at 7:30, with just locals beginning their day. Shopkeepers rolling up metal shutters, the occasional taxi honking its horn, the smell of fresh bread from small bakeries.

The temperature was around 12°C with clear skies - perfect walking weather. I headed toward the outskirts of town, away from the Church of the Nativity that I visited yesterday. I wanted to see more of everyday Bethlehem, beyond the religious sites.

I found myself drawn to a small olive grove on the edge of town. The trees here are incredible - gnarled, ancient beings that have witnessed centuries of history. Some look like they could be hundreds of years old. I spent nearly 40 minutes just photographing them from different angles, capturing how the morning light filtered through their silvery leaves.

While I was there, an elderly Palestinian farmer approached and we had a brief conversation. My Arabic is non-existent, and his English was limited, but through gestures and smiles, he conveyed that some of these trees had been in his family for generations. He pointed to one particularly massive specimen and indicated it was over 800 years old. I was awestruck thinking about all this tree has witnessed.

Back in town, I wandered through the market area where vendors were setting up for the day. The fruits and vegetables looked incredibly fresh - nothing like the perfect-looking but often tasteless produce we get in supermarkets back home. I bought some dates and almonds to snack on later.

As I walked, I couldn't help noticing the signs of tension that exist here. News reports I read this morning mentioned recent settler attacks on Palestinian vehicles southeast of Bethlehem. The separation wall looms as a constant reminder of the conflict. It's jarring to see such beauty and such division coexisting in the same small area.

I'm planning to visit the Walled Off Hotel later today - the controversial hotel and art installation created by Banksy. I've heard it offers a unique perspective on the separation wall and the political situation here.

Tomorrow is Epiphany, and there should be religious ceremonies happening in the city. I'm hoping to observe some of these before I leave. I've been told they're quite moving, even for a non-religious observer like myself.

Sitting now in a small café near Star Street, I'm reflecting on how this place fits into my journey. In three days, I'll turn 50 years old. There's something profound about approaching this milestone in a place with such deep historical and spiritual significance. Bethlehem has existed for thousands of years, making my half-century seem like the blink of an eye.

I have 367 days left on this journey, and I'm still searching for whatever it is I set out to find. Sometimes I think I'm getting closer, and other times it feels more elusive than ever. But mornings like this - quiet walks in ancient places, brief connections with strangers despite language barriers - these moments feel important, like pieces of a puzzle I'm slowly assembling.

Time to finish my second coffee and head toward the Walled Off Hotel. The day is still young, and there's much more to discover.