Finding patterns in Beirut's chaos
It's Friday, and the midday call to prayer has just finished echoing through the streets of Beirut. I'm sitting at a small cafΓ© near Martyrs' Square, nursing my second coffee of the day while watching the city pulse around me. The sky is growing increasingly cloudy, and the weather app on my phone promises rain later this afternoon.
This morning started with a bit of a surprise. I woke to find an email notification about Al Habtoor Group's sudden exit from Lebanon. The Dubai-based company is shutting down operations here and laying off all employees due to ongoing disputes with Lebanese authorities. I'd seen their name on various buildings during my walks, and it made me wonder about the ripple effects this will have on the local economy. These corporate decisions, made in boardrooms far away, end up affecting real people's livelihoods here.
On a more positive note, I also read about Qatar's recent investment in Lebanon's electricity sector - hundreds of millions of dollars that should help improve infrastructure for about 1.5 million people. It's a fascinating contrast: one major investor leaves while another steps in.
After breakfast, I decided to explore the Achrafieh district, one of Beirut's oldest neighborhoods. The architecture here tells stories of Lebanon's complex history - French colonial buildings stand alongside modern apartments, some still bearing the scars of past conflicts. I found myself stopping frequently to photograph interesting doorways and balconies, each seeming to hold secrets of previous lives.
Around 11:30, I stumbled upon a small bookshop tucked away on a side street. The elderly owner greeted me warmly when I entered, his eyes lighting up when I mentioned I was from Norway. "We don't get many Norwegian visitors," he said in perfect English. When I asked how he learned the language, he explained he'd spent several years teaching at universities across Europe before returning to Beirut in the 1990s.
We talked for nearly an hour about Lebanese literature, and he recommended several authors whose works have been translated to English. I left with a collection of short stories by Elias Khoury and a promise to return before I leave the city.
It's strange how quickly I've developed a fondness for Beirut. The city is chaotic yet captivating, with layers of history visible at every turn. The contrasts are stark - luxury boutiques next to buildings still riddled with bullet holes, ancient ruins alongside modern skyscrapers.
I've been thinking about the restaurant owner I met yesterday, the one who had worked on Norwegian cruise ships. These unexpected connections make travel so meaningful - finding threads that somehow link back to your own story while weaving you into someone else's.
The clouds are growing darker now, and I can feel the first hints of rain in the air. According to my weather app, we're in for showers throughout the evening. I think I'll finish my coffee and head to the Sursock Museum before the rain begins in earnest. I've heard it houses an impressive collection of contemporary art, and after spending time with ancient artifacts at the National Museum, I'm curious to see Lebanon's modern creative expressions.
Tomorrow, I'm considering a day trip to the Jeita Grotto - apparently one of the world's most impressive cave systems. It's been on my list since arriving in Lebanon, and with potentially better weather tomorrow, it seems like the perfect time to go.
As I gather my things to leave, I notice the cafΓ© has started to fill with Friday lunch crowds - a mix of business people, students from nearby universities, and what appear to be local regulars. There's something comforting about these universal patterns of daily life that transcend geography. No matter where you are in the world, people gather, they eat, they talk, they connect.
Perhaps that's what I'm really collecting on this journey - not just photographs and souvenirs, but patterns of human existence, the similarities that bind us together despite our differences.
343 days to go. Sometimes that feels like forever, other times it seems to be rushing past too quickly.