Morning in the silk district: exploring Croix-Rousse

I woke up early this morning, feeling refreshed and energized after yesterday's explorations. The restlessness that had been building in Annecy has transformed into a productive curiosity here in Lyon. There's so much to discover in this city!

After a quick breakfast at my hotel, I headed out at 8:50 for a 9:00 walking tour of the Croix-Rousse district that I'd booked yesterday. The morning air was crisp and cool - about 15°C according to my phone - and the cloudy sky gave the city a moody, atmospheric quality.

I arrived at Place des Terreaux ten minutes before the tour was scheduled to begin, giving me time to admire the Bartholdi fountain while waiting. Our guide, Mathilde, arrived right on schedule, and our small group of six began climbing the slopes of Croix-Rousse.

The canuts' legacy

Croix-Rousse sits on a hill north of the city center, and it has a fascinating history. During the 19th century, this district was home to thousands of silk workers known as "canuts." Mathilde explained that these skilled artisans operated large looms in their apartments, which required high ceilings to accommodate the equipment.

We walked through narrow streets lined with distinctive tall buildings, many with large windows designed to maximize natural light for the intricate silk work. Mathilde pointed out subtle architectural details I would have completely missed on my own - the way certain buildings have been modified over time, the significance of particular doorways, and the occasional silk-related motifs carved into stone.

"The canuts worked extremely long hours in difficult conditions," Mathilde explained as we paused in a small square. "They revolted twice in the 1830s, making this area an important site in French labor history."

The tour led us through several traboules - those hidden passageways I'd begun exploring yesterday in Vieux Lyon. Here in Croix-Rousse, they served a practical purpose for the silk workers, allowing them to transport delicate fabrics protected from rain and weather.

Museum of fine arts

After the tour ended around 11:00, I decided to visit the Museum of Fine Arts, which was back near Place des Terreaux where we'd started. The museum is housed in a former abbey and is reportedly one of the finest in France outside Paris.

I spent about an hour wandering through galleries filled with impressive collections spanning from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern art. The painting collection was particularly notable, with works by Monet, Picasso, and Rubens among many others.

One room contained a collection of silk samples and designs from Lyon's heyday as a silk-producing center, creating a perfect connection to what I'd learned earlier on the tour. The intricate patterns and vibrant colors showed why Lyon's silk was so highly prized throughout Europe.

It's now midday, and I'm sitting at a café near the museum, watching people hurry past. There's talk of an EDF strike today, though it doesn't seem to be affecting daily life much from what I can see. The weather remains cloudy but comfortable, and I'm contemplating how to spend my afternoon.

I'm debating between exploring the Confluence district, where the Rhône and Saône rivers meet, or perhaps taking a more leisurely approach and finding a park to enjoy some reading time. With four more days in Lyon before my departure on the 13th, I don't feel rushed to see everything at once.

What strikes me most about Lyon so far is how it feels both grand and approachable. It has the impressive architecture and cultural institutions of a major European city, but without the overwhelming crowds or tourist-focused atmosphere I often associate with capital cities.

44 days into this journey, I'm finding myself increasingly comfortable with the ebb and flow of travel. The initial anxiety about what comes next has given way to a more relaxed curiosity. I'm learning to trust that interesting experiences will find me, even on days when I don't have an elaborate plan.

And speaking of plans, I think I'll head toward the rivers this afternoon. Water always provides a good perspective on a city.